Spring is back and with it the cruise collections of the big fashion houses.
First born some 20 years ago in America, this phenomenon then landed in Europe to present, before the summer, garments for those who then flew to exotic places in the winter. The terms – cruise/cruise – and – resort – derive from this very thought.
What’s next? If years ago the fashion show had two collections per year – spring/summer – and – fall/winter – the focus over the years has changed. Today, in fact, these collections, along with pre-fall collections, are presented outside of traditional fashion weeks to heed consumer demands to continually buy ‘something new.’ Attention is rising and brands are producing more and more.
Specifically, these proposals, after their presentation in May, arrive in stores in November to prepare customers for the Christmas ‘cruise’. The same phenomenon happens in the winter months with fashion shows called pre-fall collections, which then land in stores in early summer. A particular feature that distinguishes this type of show (so resort/cruise and pre-fall) is the presentation of products close to the brand’s DNA, so that the end consumer can more easily recognize its distinctive features.
Thus, between May and June, the major maisons present cruise/resort collections, in most cases, in some exotic, ‘rich’ or particularly significant location for the brand.
So here are the luxury bigwigs preparing to launch their ‘cruise’ collections around the world.
Common denominator: Italy
Choosing an Italy with a baroque touch on May 24 is Louis Vuitton. The star location will be Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore, hosting a fashion show for the first time inside the Borromeo Island’s palace and gardens. “One of the admirable examples of Italian Baroque, Isola Bella, Palazzo Borromeo and its gardens stand like a vessel on the waters of Lake Maggiore,” the label specifies. The presented collection will be available in all brand stores from November 2023.
Also staying in the Belpaese is Alberta Ferretti. He will show his resort collection in Rimini on May 26 in the setting of Castel Sismondo to pay homage to the designer’s roots, Romagna and the cinema of Federico Fellini.
Pucci chooses Tuscany with a show in Florence held last May 4, signed by the creative vision of Camille Miceli, in house since 2021. After Capri, where she presented her first collection, now the creative director returns to her roots by presenting a see-now buy-now summer line named ‘Initials E.P.’
Who goes overseas?
Tomorrow Chanel will bring its Cruise 2024 collection back to Los Angeles, following on the heels of the last show sixteen years ago at Santa Monica Airport signed by Karl Lagerfeld (who remained at the helm of the fashion house from 1983 until his death in 2019). Hollywood also represents a historical connection to the brand from the days of founder Gabrielle Chanel who, after being invited to town by producer Samuel Goldwyn in 1931, began to dress many actresses of the time.
Gucci will fly to Seoul on May 16 to present its cruise collection, so as to celebrate the brand’s 25 years in the country. In fact, in 1998 the Florentine fashion house opened its first store in the Korean capital. The venue chosen for the show is in front of the Geunjeongjeon, the main hall of the Gyeongbokgung Palace, known to have been the main venue for royal ceremonies. An in-house team will design the collection. In fact, we’ll have to wait until September to see the work of new creative director Sabato De Sarno, fresh out of Valentino, on the runway.
After presenting pre-fall in Mumbai, Dior is ready to fly to Mexico for Cruise 2024 to be held May 20 in Mexico City.
Overseas choice also for Carolina Herrera, which will land in Rio de Janeiro on June 1 defining the brand’s first runway show outside New York. This will be followed by Max Mara flying to Stockholm on June 11.
In short, we just have to wait! What collection are you eagerly waiting to see?
by Giorgia Dallasio
May 09, 2023
