VINTAGE COLUMN: MUM CAN I BORROW THIS? THE VEST
Welcome back to our weekly column about Vintage!
This week, let’s dig out from our mother’s trunk… THE VEST!
After the suit and the shirt jacket, it’s clear that the dandy style is more and more of an inspiration for women!
Ever since King Louis’ XVI era, when all nobility lived in Versailles and had to dress according to the fashion, the vest has been a masculine item. The dress code consisted in a jacket, a vest and culottes (knee-long skin tight trousers). During the 20th century it was still part of the formal attire, but thanks to cinema, television and photography the trends change fast: during the 20s the vest is the main item for Futurists and in the 50s it becomes a mark for the Teddy boys.
At the end of the 60s the vest enters women’s closet. Stylists like Moschino and Yves Saint Laurent created entire collections revolving around this item. It was created in new fabrics, with and without buttons and it became a substitute for jackets in suits.
During the 70s vests acquire fringes and beads. By the end of the 80s it has embroideries and decorations, floral patterns and velvet (very sober, I’d say, just like everything in the 80s).
Nowadays, not only Parisian catwalks are celebrating its comeback, but also several street style images are making it the Next Big Thing.
The first was the beautiful Blake Lively, who chose a “Me and Annie” inspired look by Michael Kors. Several colleagues followed suit, such like Nicole Kidman and Irina Shayk.
The vest in 2020 has two versions: elegant, formal, pinstripe models as elements of the classic three-piece suit or as a single item to add a lighter touch to outfits. It is always sleeveless and tailor made. The most popular fabrics are velvet or faux-leather for the short models, wool and sheepskin for longer ones.
How do you match it? Here are our tips:
1. As part of a suit. This style has been mostly masculine for a long time. It’s a sophisticated and unexpected choice, the three piece suit is a great must have.
2. As a coat! Medium or long, the vest looks good on shirts and tops and even jackets, often with a belt to keep it in place.