The benefits of trend research, which we have already discussed in a previous article, allows researchers of raw and semi-finished materials to identify the collection’s key materials, colores, and prints that, together with the new technologies used for production and its improvement, allow the brand to be always avant-garde.
The “research and development raw materials manager” is the person who is professionally in charge of researching materials for making samples of the new collection that will mirror the subsequent production of garments sold during the sales campaign.
The technician assigned to this research must be very familiar with the materials (fabrics, leather, various accessories) and can therefore be a merchandise specialist, in large companies or for very important brands.
Elsewhere, in smaller realities, this figure with its functions is hired by an assistant designer or assistants/buyers in the product office.
In any case, those who develop this activity must have a problem-solving mind, often having to search not only for the most suitable raw materials for the creation of the product but also for a range of alternatives with different prices, availability, minimums and delivery terms.
Goes to trade shows ( Milanounica, Première vision, Lineapelle, Pitti filati, ecc.), visit suppliers (or is visited by agents and representatives of raw materials and accessories companies), Negotiate prices and terms and order samples that are submitted to the merchandiser and the designer in meetings dealing with the new collection.
In addition to raw materials, the researcher can also deal with their customization, which is done through the following of semi-finished products (intermediate products that require further processing in order to be marketed or incorporated into finished products). The customization allows a touch of creativity in the process of sample making, especially when using state-of-the-art machinery combined with traditional manual techniques, so that the contemporary, modern look is blended with craftsmanship. Examples are embroideries, prints, dyes, electroplating of components and small parts used for bags and shoes or even some processes concerning footwear all the way to modern lasing, embossed processes, 3D decorative patterns, screen printing, heat sealing, and so on. Technology has made it possible to achieve particularly popular levels of customization that today underlie the success of even the simplest and most seemingly straightforward garments or accessories.
Once the components are defined the buyers in the product office will proceed to purchase the samples needed for the sample book and then for production.
However, all materials that have been selected by those involved in raw material research are catalogued and form a material archive, as well as a pool of potential suppliers who can if necessary be contacted if problems arise with the materials selected or if there is a need to change a fabric or add, for example, an opening with a lower price.
In addition, to conclude it should be noted that today’s big push for sustainability also leads to the creation of an archive to collect, preserve and disseminate the best practices andresearch work behind every component, fabric and processing created in an ethical and environmentally friendly way.
by Stefano Sacchi
April 28, 2023
